
Snapshow
Addiction 18 Jun 10
(coming at you from guest/senior editor Ellis Ericson)
A week, geez that was a long trip.
Winter, gotta love it. Swell after swell pounding the east coast in a southerly formation, banks are formed - banks are worn.
It seemed like it was relentless, every time I did my daily 6:30am check I was greeted with 4 - 6 corduroy lines kissed by a SW wind, heaven some of you may say? I say hell!
The last weeks have taken quite a toll on my quiver, boards snapping quicker than AL's Canon shutter and my weathered frame continuously beaten by 10 wave sets, I m exhausted surfed out and excuse my Surf jargon 'Faarrkkkddd!
It doesn't help that I'm an Addict, if the waves are good I find myself surfing uncontrollably - work , girlfriends , money and war all come second when its pumping. I just cant help it. I need to be in the water. I need to be chasing that bank or finding that hollow section. Can anyone help? Dr Phil...? oprah?
With any addiction comes a short glimpse of satisfaction and I definitely have had a few satisfying sessions these last few swells, so i guess the viscous spiral will continue.
Portrait: This week meet Insight wave shredders Warren 'Spider Doodie' Smith and Rangi 'Space Garth' Ormond. They came and slayed in our little neck of the woods recently. | |
Watch: I have two things for you to watch this week. |
Thankfully, for my life, the waves have dropped, calming my addiction and letting me return to my life, angry boss and angry Girlfriend.
Cant wait for my next hit , I mean swell.....
Love Ellis.


















