Spring. Fins. Swell. 28 Sep 10
Wow the surf really pumped for a while there didn't it. Meaty south swells keeping surfers stoked for the past two weeks. It's backed off now, so time at last to dive into some work.
But work will have to wait. The sun came out...it feels like summer, and with daylight savings starting this weekend it will feel even more like summer. What a dream. Hope it is filled with North East swells. Please
I had a surf out the front yesterday afternoon with three mates and it was so fun. Tiny, perfect, glassy, fun waves, perfect for the longboard or the single fin. You know those afternoons when the vibe is all time, everyone is stoked and then the sun sets and it's not just one of those normal ones. It's amazing, you say it's the best one you have ever seen. (you know it's probably just in the top 10 though) I wished I had a camera, but was pretty happy to just lock it away in the memory bank. Yew (could be on again this arvo.)
Kicked off yesterday with 260 groms invading North Av for the comp. Barton Lynch runs this comp every year in the September school holidays and it has grown every year. The kids love it, they win ridiculous prizes, they get to surf a couple of times no matter what, so it's smiles all round. Missed it this year, get involved next year.
A Day in the Life: a new web series by Etnies Australia looking at a day in the life of Ellis Ericson. This is episode 1 of 3. So look out for the new ones dropping soon.
Quiksilver Pro France: Kicked off two days ago in some heavy conditions which looked a lot like the our local beachies on a big day. Looks to be some more waves heading to the south of France later this week, so stay tuned to the website for all the details.
Locals Kai Otton, Chris Davidson and Luke Stedman are still in the event too. Yew!
Cooper Chapman had a solid Round 1 win in King of the Groms too. Yeah Coops!
You should probably watch this video of the First Day's Highlights.
Claire Norman: This week meet Claire.
My story: Growing up, my two older brothers and I were encouraged to enjoy the outdoors at every given moment. When school holidays came around we were lucky enough to be either heading south to the ski fields, driving north for the beach holiday or staying home spending our days at the local beaches. Dad pushed me onto my first baby waves at Nth Bondi on the trusty blue McCoy foamie. I still call Bondi my local, and as busy and crowded as it gets, you'll always see a familiar face in the lineup.
Small today and tomorrow people, but looks like Huey has some south swell in store for us on Thursday. Sounds good.
Have a great week in the sun.
Careful on the roads, the groms are out in force.